|

|

|

|
|
First
find the balance point of the burr by balancing it on the
top of a section of ½” dowel. Then hold the burr in place
& mark around the dowel with a pencil.
|
Burr
mounted on faceplate. My lathe is a Myford ML8 with a maximum
swing over the bed of 7 ½” Dia. Therefore all work on this
bowl will be on the outboard side of the headstock.
|
Flat
created on the burr, size and position of re-chucking spigot
marked with pencil.
|
|

|

|

|
| The
completed spigot. This measures 37 x 4mm (1 ½” x 5/32”) deep
with a slight dovetail to suit my Axminster chucks O’Donnell
spigot jaws. |
Base
of bowl and underside of wings turned ready for finish sanding.
Ensure sufficient material is left to form the top side of
the wing and the top rim of the bowl which will be used to
hold the bowl while turning off the base re-chucking spigot. |
Applying
a coat of Danish oil to the base. |
|

|

|

|
| Bowl
re-chucked in Axminster 38mm O’donnell jaws … |
…..
ready for work to start on shaping the top side of the wing
and the inside of the bowl |
Bowl
is now mounted in wooden jaws which grip on the 4 ¾” x 1/8”
lip of the bowl. ¼” Bowl gouge is then used to remove the
re-chucking spigot, leaving a concave base so the bowl sits
flat. |
|

|

|
|
| Spigot
removed and base finish sanded down to 400 grit before applying
a coat of friction polish. |
Due
to the spiky edge of the burr it is much safer to finish polishing
the top and underside of the wings with a polishing mop mounted
in a Dremel. |
Finished
bowl is 210mm at it’s widest point
and stands 40mm high. |